NEW YORK – Designer Tori Birch says she noticed that women do not want to have rules about what and when to wear. They want to dress on their own terms and she helps them do it with her new collection.
The first image on the runway set the tone for her fall-winter fashion show at New York Fashion Week on Monday with a dark sports jacket made of technological jersey with a sporty yellow stripe paired with woolen pants with a boucle.
Pandemic life has prompted Birch to combine casual wear with outdoor clothing to reflect a fresh approach to fashion and a desire for less structure and more comfort without compromising style. T-shirts with handmade beads and pullovers with a quarter zipper made of knitted knitwear emphasized the sensuality of high and low fashion.
“I love sports and we have a sports collection, but we wanted to look at it through the prism of luxury, and I see women wearing such things and mixing them up for the evening, and it’s kind of an interesting part,” Birch said in an interview. yu after the show.
“I started just looking at women in New York on the streets, and I saw a shift in how they accept creativity and their individualism,” she said. “I thought it would be very interesting to think about geometry, women and the body.”
Many of the designs showed asymmetrical dots and edges in the tails of the shirt, cuffs and hem of the skirt. Pants with a high fit were tight at the waist, but then were loose and lush in styles with bindings and harems. There were coats of neutral colors, some short with belts to emphasize the waist, others that fell to the middle of the calf.
Black and earthy brown were predominant in appearance, but there were playful streaks of bright colors such as chartreuse and red fire. Birch said she drew inspiration from the 1980s Memphis design movement, which focused on postmodern decor with abstract and asymmetrical shapes and vibrant colors.
“I roughly looked at Memphis and some of the pottery and carpets, but I also intentionally didn’t want it to reflect the decade. But I knew that color, liveliness and joy should be a part of it, because I think we are all ready to move on from the last two and a half years, ”she said.
The final ones were several ankle-length long-sleeved dresses, made of dark palette knitwear with geometric shapes of bright colors such as yellow and red. In farewell Birch brought brilliance and brilliance to a long black half-cut turtleneck of a knitted dress adorned with an openwork pattern with sequins adorned with a silver crescent.
The dramatic venue was the 25th floor of a Manhattan skyscraper that overlooked the New Yorker Hotel with floor-to-ceiling windows that surrounded the runway, showcasing the New York City skyline at sunset. As the models walked the catwalk, a giant red neon sign “New Yorker” with the Tory Burch logo shone in the distance.
Uma Thurman and Amy Lou Wood sat next to Vogue editor Anna Wintour in the front row. This week’s fashion shows are more personal than in the 2021 schedule, when the pandemic forced many fashion houses to offer only virtual shows.
Katie Holmes said she feels the energy is returning to New York. “I love Tory Birch. I love her clothes and she’s a phenomenal woman so I’m excited to come out and support her … and it’s fun and inspiring to be around the people who create. ”
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